Category Archives: Central Asia

Memorial Day

Today is Memorial Day, the day that Americans commemorate lives lost in war and combat. As in previous years, someone from Holliston has placed markers and flags along the main roads in town. Each hand-lettered sign has the name and age of the soldiers, marines and sailors who were recently killed in action in Afghanistan and Iraq, as well as the state or country where they lived.

It’s quite an affecting thing to see the miles of signs, flags, names and ages as I drive home from work. The names don’t leave much of an impression usually. But the ages definitely do. So many of them are so young. And this year more than in many years past — because of the surge of violence in Afghanistan — the dead were from many different countries.

It seemed to me the only way to really convey the experience of seeing all of those signs was to walk along parts of Routes 16 and 126 in Holliston and photograph each of the signs that I saw along the way. Here are 100 or so, as well as a few random scenes along the way to give a sense of what Holliston is like the rest of the year. (You can click any photo for a larger version.)

If you’re in the military, thank you for your service. And please stay safe.

Memorial Day Weekend, Holliston, Mass., 2010 Memorial Day Weekend, Holliston, Mass., 2010 Memorial Day Weekend, Holliston, Mass., 2010
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Posted in Burying Grounds, Central Asia, Photography, This is who we are | 1 Comment

Afghan history since 1978

If you can believe it, I once made a serious go at becoming a historian. I wanted to go to history grad school, but I hadn’t taken any coursework as an undergrad. Feeling extremely self-conscious and very far behind, I set out to get caught up. I took classes, first at U.Mass and then at Boston College. I went to AHA meetings and lectures at local universities. I read tons of book reviews. It was simultaneously enrapturing and terrifying.

But it was not to be. It’s hard to make up that much lost time, and I didn’t really have the mindset for researching in original sources, a skill that my “catch up” survey classes didn’t push. Now that I know better and have no serious desire to be a professional history, I would really love to do some original research (which probably explains why I’m so fascinated with tombstones these days).

And more than anything, I’m prone to scratch at an itch until I’m satisfied that I know enough about it to be able to define its key features, its edges, its historiography, and the why (not just the when and what). Since I finished my class early this month I’ve been reading voraciously about Afghanistan.

Afghanistan: the crossroads of the world, the graveyard of empires. Its recorded history extends thousands of years — Alexander of Macedonia lent his name to Kandahar, for goodness sake, and there’s another four to five thousand years in the archaeological record before he showed up. I’ve been reading a bit about that history recently, and I’d like to share it with you; but there’s way too much for one dispatch.

Its modern history intersects many of the 20th century’s historical themes: empire, globalization, the Cold War, and transnational terrorism. I think I was like most people who could only briefly describe Afghan history by giving a few keywords: Soviet invasion, mujahideen, Taliban, al-Qaeda. Not surprisingly, there’s a lot more to it than the plot of a Rambo movie. Since Sunday marked the round-number anniversary of the beginning of what might euphemistically be called the “Afghan’s troubles,” let’s take a closer look at the last thirty years of Afghanistan’s history.

Important note: Be sure to see the “Important Note on Sources” at the end of this dispatch.

An Overview


The last thirty years in Afghan history trace an arc that began with instability and war and continued downward to disaster intermingled with stability through totalitarian theocracy before the reemergence of a fragile civil society in the midst of war. It’s fair to say that Afghans have endured one insurgency or another since 1978. Here are some of the key dates for future reference:

  • April 27, 1978 — Communist coup
  • December 24, 1979 — The Soviet Army invades
  • February 15, 1989 — The Soviets withdraw
  • April 1992 — The communist government falls to the Mujahideen
  • September 1996 — The Taliban take Kabul
  • December, 2001 — The Taliban flee Kandahar

The Saur Revolution


Picture it, Kabul 1978. King Zahir Shah had been living in exile for five years since a mostly bloodless coup led by President Mohammed Daoud Khan. Afghanistan was a poor developing country with powerful neighbors. Its western neighbor, Iran, was close to theocratic revolution in 1979. Pakistan, to the east and south, had seen General Muhammad Zia-ul-Haq seize power in a coup the year before. And the Soviet Union loomed large on its northern border. Though nominally unaligned, the Soviets poured billions of rubles of influence south over the preceding decades in the form of economic and military aid.

Continue reading

Posted in Central Asia, General, History, This is who we are | Leave a comment

Silk Road

I have a serious fascination with South and Central Asia. You know, the -stans — Kazakhstan, Pakistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan — plus Iran and India. This interest is part of my infatuation with the Silk Road, so I also throw in Turkey, the Levant, Mongolia, Tibet, Xinjiang, and eastern China for good measure, too.

See, one of my most ambitious goals in life is to travel the Silk Route, starting in Turkey or Lebanon or Israel and endiing in Beijing or Shanghai or Hong Kong. We could do much of this now by train as others have if we wanted — and it would be fantastic — but I’m thinking about something bigger, something that would put more stamps in my passport and gray hairs on my head. Clearly I’m going to need more money and skills. I’m working on the latter by learning some languages. Hopefully the money will sort itself out.

I figure there’s at least a decade (at least!) before we have the money (and probably much longer for the skills). So here’s your chance to recommend things to see along the way. Or try to talk me out of it. Or just post ridiculous things about the Silk Road or the ‘Stans.

What’s currently on my list of things to see?

p.s. — You may see some Central Asian history here in the future.

Posted in Central Asia, Travel | 3 Comments